Boring Bar will not Repeat on Bore Size

July 1st, 2016

A very common concern with any boring bar is that the bar sometimes will not repeat on bored size. This can be caused by one a few different things, or a combination of more than one.

You set your mike and bore a hole and find the hole is oversized, you reset the mike and the next hole is then undersized, obviously there is something that is not right.

First thing we would look for are scores or scratches in the micometer face. If the mike is damaged, the bar will not repeat.The mike should be returned to KW and the face reground and repaired.

Micrometer stem bend, will cause the same problems depending on the amount of bend and the amount of stock to be removed. A quick way to determine if the stem is bent is to insert a feeler gauge (.002) between the face of the mike and the tool bit, then tighten the bit. The feeler gauge should stay in place, and if you slowy rotate the mike in the boring head, the tension in the feeler gauge should not increse or decrease. If it does, the stem is bent and requires replacement.

Another thing to check is if the micrometer not locating into the boring head correctly. The stem of the mike has a V-groove in it which works with a spring loaded ball bearing to insure correct position of the mike into the head every time. If the groove is worn or the ball is out of adjustment, the bar will not repeat on size. The micrometer should "snap" into the head and when slight rearward pressure is applied, the mike should snap back into the boring head. If it does not the ball positon will need to be adjusted. Contact Tech Services for assistance in this case.

If you tighten the tool bit and the tool bit moves away from the feeler gauge, and the feeler becomes loose, there is a different problem. Either the tool gib, tool holder or boring head is worn. You can examine the tool holder quite easily by simply checking the angle where the gib plate contacts the tool holder for visable wear and also feel it for any step. If worn, it will require replacement. You will need to remove the gib from the boring head to examine it for wear also, if the tool holder is worn, it is likely the gib will be worn also.

Boring Bar will not Repeat on Bore Size

The boring head can also be worn, and cause the same problem as the tool gib or holder. If the boring head is worn, then the head will need to be replaced. Rebuilding a boring head is only something that the factory can do, and all heads may not be repairable. A combination of two or more of these concerns may be found on the same machine. These findings are normally on very old or high service units.

These are but a few possible causes for potential boring errors in bore size.

As always please contact KW Tech services for further help if required.

 

Kwik-Way History

February 22nd, 2017
Kwik-Way History

Kwik-Way Industries, Inc., began as the Cedar Rapids Engineering Company in 1920, providing a product sorely needed by the fledg­ling automobile and truck indus­try—a reliable, standardized way to reface engine valves. Until the Kwik-Way valve refacing machine was marketed, that process was per­formed, with difficulty, by hand. Charles C. Hahn, founder of the company, was a former blacksmith's apprentice who appreciated auto­mobiles and wanted to solve some of their engine problems, such as valves warped by heat and wear. He queried machine tool makers around the country who not only lacked a lathe "chuck" to fit his needs but flatly told Hahn that such a tool couldn't be built. 

Hahn persevered, however, and with R.H. Meister, an experienced machinist, founded Cedar Rapids Engineering Company. The partners hired a creative mechanical engineer, A.I. Dunn, and between them, the trio designed the chuck needed to reface engine valves. The device worked and the Kwik-Way valve facing machine was born.

The firm's first modest office and shop was located at 902 Seven­ teenth Street Northeast in Cedar Rapids, and measured only 20 by 20 feet. However, the new product caught on fast throughout the United States and the business grew. The company's first salesman was I.R. Goodwin, an energetic young man who made his money the hard way—covering the dusty roads of Nebraska, North and South Dakota, and northwestern Iowa by automo­bile, peddling his wares primarily to garages.

During World War II, Cedar Rapids Engineering Company put its close-tolerance machining skills to work grinding radio crystals for the Allied defense effort. As the com­pany continued to expand, an eye was cast toward foreign markets. Although some sales had been made overseas almost by accident, it wasn't until 1962 that Kwik-Way machines were marketed abroad directly by Cedar Rapids Engineer­ing Company. That year, overseas sales totaled $68,000; today, that annual figure amounts to several million dollars.

After Charles Hahn's death in the 1940s, control of the enterprise was assumed, first by his partner, R.H. Meister, and then by Hahn's two sons, F. Critz and H. Cedric. In 1968, Cedar Rapids Engineering Company was merged into the newly formed Kwik-Way Industries, Inc., headed by Thomas A. Parks and a new professional management team. The company acquired a Canadian firm in 1969, now called Kwik - Way Manufacturing of Canada, Ltd. In late 1973, Material Products Company, a steel fabricat­ing firm, and Line-O-Tronics, Inc., maker of auto front-end alignment tools and wheel balancers, were ac­quired. Today Kwik-Way manufac­tures the automotive industry's most complete line of repair machinery.

A large industrial facility was built and occupied at 500 Fifty-seventh Street, Marion, in 1976. In 1 9 8 0 , the company employs approximately 300 people through its Marion facility, 140 at Rock Is­land, Illinois, and 50 at its facility at Toronto, Canada.

Safety and Dressing Guide for Seat Grinder Wheels

January 9th, 2013

The Kwik-Way Heavy Duty Wheel Dresser

WHEELS commonly referred to as Seat Grinding Stones or Rocks.

The most common cause of wheel breakage is due to improper mounting and abusive and/or careless  operation.  Only  through  proper  use,  regular  grinding machine  maintenance,  service  and inspection procedures can wheel breakage be prevented.
 
It  is  the  responsibility  of  the  user  to  inspect,  at  regular  intervals,  to  be  certain  that  mounting flanges are in usable condition, are of proper size and shape and that no damage has occurred to the wheel or the machine.
 
The following DO'S and DONT'S should be used as a guide to safer grinding

DO's DON'Ts
CHECK all wheels for CRACKS or other
DAMAGE before mounting.
DON'T USE wheels WHICH HAVE BEEN
DROPPED or otherwise damaged.
USE MOUNTING BLOTTERS when
supplied with wheels
DON'T USE EXCESSIVE PRESSURE
WHEN MOUNTING wheel.  Tighten nut only
enough to hold wheel firmly.
Be sure WHEEL HOLE, threaded or
unthreaded, FITS machine arbor
PROPERLY and that flanges are clean, flat
and of the proper type for the wheel you
are mounting.
DON'T USE HEAVY GRINDING
PRESSURE
Always RUN WHEEL WITH GUARD IN
PLACE at least one minute before grinding
(wheel dresser).
 
Always WEAR PROTECTIVE SAFETY
GLASSES or proper face shield.
 
Wear a DUST RESPIRATOR, as dust
conditions are present in most grinding
operations
 

WARNING
IMPROPER USE MAY CAUSE BREAKAGE AND SERIOUS INJURY.

 

KWIK-WAY WHEEL DRESSER SET-UP

  1. Loosen handle #3 and rotate the pointer line until it aligns to the index angle desired and retighten.
  2. After attaching the correct grinding wheel to the grinder unit, carefully lower the grinder unit onto the dresser arbor item #1
  3. Loosen item #5 and raise or lower the arbor until the face of the wheel is in relative position to the diamond (#6). Retighten # 5
  4. Adjust the diamond #6 by turning the knurled knob #2 until the diamond is nearly in contact to the face of the grinding wheel.
  5. Engage the grinder motor hex drive to the hex cap on the grinder unit start the motor and begin  dressing  the  wheel  using  handle  #  4  and  slowly  sweeping  the  face.  (Follow  the directions below)

DRESSING OR TRUING THE VALVE SEAT WHEEL

It is necessary to true or dress seat wheels that have become dull or loaded, or have lost their form (angle). To obtain the best possible dress, observe the following.

  1. Feed the diamond into the wheel very slowly until the diamond just touches the wheel.
  2. Move the diamond across the face of the wheel beginning from the bottom and sweep up.  A slow sweep will provide a smoother finish while a rapid sweep will provide a coarse finish. 

NOTE: How  the  wheel  is  dressed  will  directly  influence the finish of the valve seat. Take care when dressing the seat wheels, this will improve valve seat finish and increase diamond life. Check the  dress  of  the  wheel  frequently  during  the  seat  grinding  operation.  It  is  better  to  dress frequently and remove a slight amount of wheel than to wait too long and have a necessity to remove an excessive amount to correct the wheel 

Changing a valve seat stone angle is only advised if it is to increase the stone angle, i.e., taking a 15-degree angle wheel and making it a 30-degree. 

It is not cost effective to attempt to reduce an angle, too much abrasive and diamond is required to perform this operation. 

How to Fix Chatter or a Really Poor Finish on the Valve

April 10th, 2019

Valve Finish

The following will resolve a valve finish issue and is also a good part of the process of setting up a new Kwik-Way SVS II Deluxe Valve Refacer. 

Chatter or a Poor Finish

on an engine valve after grinding is almost always the result of vibration somewhere.  There are other things that can cause it too, but the most common is vibration. There are little adjustments that can be made to try and clean things up.  Slow the valve spin, dress the stone more aggressively or less aggressively.  Maybe even try a different grinding wheel. Those can all affect the finish of a valve.  But if it's a really bad finish, chances are you have a vibration somewhere.

Fixing the Chatter Causing Vibration

The Kwik-Way Model SVSII Deluxe machine is a High-Performance machine. The cast iron base and special treatments to parts and sections of the machine make it the most accurate and long lasting machine of it's kind. But even so, when it gets out of calibration it will happily produce a bad finish. To prevent this the technician must be diligent with maintenance and cleaning. Afterall you are producing fine particles of metal and stone from two spinning objects.  Even though you are using a liquid to help capture this debris it's still getting around.

Start with the Big Motor

Start by making sure your machine is turned off and unplugged. While standing in front of the Valve Refacer, move the traverse arm to a vertical position. Then place both hands on the two aluminum end caps of the main motor housing. Now attempt to move the housing away from you and towards you. Does it move?  If it does you likely have found the reason for your bad valve finish. 

Adjusting the Gibs

Leave the traverse lever in the verticle position. Go around behind the machine and locate the three Allen head screws just under the black housing cover.  Start with the screw that is near the large grinding stone. Tighten until the traverse lever won't move anymore.  Now slowly back off the screw while trying to move the handle until you are able to move the handle its full range with a noticeable amount of smooth drag.  Put the traverse lever vertical again and repeat the same process on the screw on the other end. 

Now move back to the front of the machine and check to see that the rocking movement you felt earlier is now gone.  If not you'll need to repeat the process above or you may have a warn or damaged gib. But if the movement is gone you can finish by repeating the same steps we did to the outer two screws on the middle screw. While this will likely have solved your bad valve finish problem I would recommend you check all the other possible adjustments I'm going to give you.

Switch Sides

Over on the Chuck side of the machine, there are several different areas that need to be looked at to ensure everything is correct. Let's start with the easy things to check.  The belt that drives the chuck is a ribbed belt for a reason.  This belt needs to be as loose as possible without slipping.  This is to prevent any motor vibration from transferring to the back end of the chuck.  Vibration back here would be amplified at the other end of the chuck where your valve is grinding.

Next, you need to check the chuck for lateral movement.  Grab the valve end and the other end of the chuck and see if you can move it side to side or front to back would be a better way of saying it.  There should be no movement from front to back.  If you have movement then you need to loosen the set screw on the spline pully on the back of the chuck and while pushing the valve end of the chuck toward the back slide the spline pully up until it just touches the side of the rear saddle mount of the chuck.  Then tighten the setscrew back up.

Chuck Gibs 

Similar to how the grinding motor side had gibs to be adjusted the chuck also has a set of gibs that can become out of adjustment.  To check this you first lock your chuck degree adjustment and then try and move the valve feed hand wheel side to side while looking were the cast plate the chuck is mounted to meets the other cast plate that has the degree markings.  IF you see a very small bead of oil moving where those two plates meet then you probably need to adjust your chuck gibs. 

These are adjusted one at a time until they are tight then back them off slightly.  When you think you have it, do the test again to be sure.

Adjusting the Chuck Saddles

The last item to investigate is the chuck saddles. These have the capped oilers on them and should be oiled on a regular basis.  Over time the chuck shaft and these saddles will become worn and need to be adjusted.  Remove the chuck belt to make these adjustments.  Start with the saddle closest to the chuck.  While turning the chuck with one hand tighten the saddle bolt until you feel resistance and back off ever so slightly until no resistance is felt.  Move to the rear of the chuck and do the same.  Finish by repeating the first operation.

After All These Adjustments

If you still have a finish problem it could be a dirty or worn out Chuck.  Do a full disassembly of your Chuck and clean it with denatured alcohol then reassemble using ATF as a lubricant. Which, by the way, is the only thing you should ever use to lubricate your Chuck ball area. Instructions to disassemble your Chuck can be found in the manual and a current manual is available on the Kwik-Way website as a free download.  

After cleaning, check the runout of your Chuck.  Use a known straight shaft like the pilot for seat grinding and place it in the chuck.  Set a dial indicator about 1 inch from the face of the Chuck and check your runout. Excessive runout at this point would indicate the need to replace the Chuck. 

If your runout is good, then it might be your stone and/or the way you are dressing your stone.  The stone should match the type of metal you are grinding and the machine manual will tell you the proper way to dress the stone for the type of cut you are attempting.

Still having a problem even after doing all the steps above?  Then you should call Irontite Tech Services for more help.  But in most cases, the above guide will solve your poor valve finish issues.

 

 

Micrometer Calibration for all Kwik-Way Model Boring Bars

February 1st, 2012

From time to time it may become necessary to re-calibrate your boring bar micrometer. Kwik-Way can not calibrate  your micrometer here at our facility due to the fact that it must be calibrated to the boring bar that it is used in.

Please follow the the instructions carefully and your micrometer will be re-calibrated and accurate again within minutes.

Model FW-II Pictured Click Here for More Info

1. Using a scrap block, center the boring bar to the cylinder to be bored, and tighten the base clamp screw.

2. Raise the boring bar up to allow the tool holder and bit to be installed into the boring head.

3  With the tool holder and bit pushed back into the boring head as far as it will go, tighten the gib set screw. Now lower the boring head until the the tool bit is just into the top of the bore.

4.  Loosen the bib screw and allow the tool to carefully come out and contact the cylinerbore. Tighten the gib screw.

5.  Raise the boring head to allow the boring bar mike to be inserted into the boring head. NOTE: Have the micrometer adjusted large enough so that the tool bit will not contact the face on insertion.

6.  Slowly rotate the micrometer spindle untl the face of the mike JUST touches the tool bit. Now remove the micrometer and advance the reading by .010 to .015, then tighten the micrometer lock screw.

7.  Insert the micromenter back into the boring head and loosen the gib set screw to allow the tool bit to contact the face.(Use caution so as no to have the tool bit scratch the face of the micrometer) Tighten the gib set screw.

8.  Bore the cylinder.... now measure the actual finished size. DO NOT  loosen or remove the boring bar. Take the measurement with the bar in place.

9.  Place the stem of the boring bar micrometer into a vise with soft jaws so as not to damage the stem. Loosen the allen set screw found in the rear os the mike thimble in the knurled area.

10. Carefully rotate the thimble so that the mike now reads your bore size. Tighten the set screw.

11. Now loosen the micrometer lock screw and rotate the thimble either clockwise or counter clockwise, whichever direction is closer to thimble "0". Now re-tighten the micrometr lock screw at "0". If necessary, loosen the thimble set screw and slip the thimble up or down until the 0 is on the appropriate black line on the body of the micrometer then tighten the thimble set screw.

12. Loosen the micrometer lock screw and rotate the thimble to the reading of  the bore size in your test cylinder. Now add .010 to the reading and rebore the cylinder. Measure the cylinder to verify size, fine tune your micrometer reading if necessary.