Flywheel Grinder Profits

July 19th, 2016


Our Van Norman Flywheel Grinders are one of the most profitable machines you could own.  They are not difficult to operate or maintain and tend to last a long time without the need for service if you do the few things that need to be done to maintain them. With a little instruction just about anyone in your shop can grind a flywheel successfully. The setup is easy and the job itself goes very fast. Typically, you should be able to get about $100 per hour if you have steady work for your machine.   Even if you don't have enough in-house work for it, you can likely get some outside jobs from other shops who don't have a flywheel grinder. There are also optional accessories available that allow you to do more than just grind flywheels.  It's becoming more common for Heavy Duty Trucks to have disc brakes with rotors that can be ground on our Van Norman Flywheel grinders with our Optional HD Truck Rotor Kit.

 

Here’s a quick overview of how to set up and use your flywheel grinder.

Select the proper stone

Not all stones are created equal. Make sure you’re using the correct stone for the material you are grinding – cast steel, billet steel or cast iron. If you aren't sure, you can ask your Irontite Sales Associate to help you determine the best stone for the type of material you will be grinding. There are also CBN wheels that you can use. These are much more expensive, but they also last about 10 times longer and some technicians feel they provide a better cut. CBN wheels are not dressed by removing material like traditional grinding stones. Instead, there is a cleaning stick that is used to remove any stuck-on material from the cutting surface of the CBN Wheel.

    

           
General Purpose Stone                                CBN Wheel

Mount and Dress the Stone

Follow our guidelines found in this section of the website for the correct dressing technique. The article was originally written for valve seat grinding stones, but the dressing principles apply to any grinding stone. You can view this Article here. The Van Norman Flywheel Grinders typically come with a Star Wheel dresser, but there is also a Diamond Dresser available. And, of course, if you are using a CBN wheel, then you do NOT want to use either of these dressing methods. Your dressing technique will influence how the stone reacts against the flywheel material. Basically, a quick pass dress will open the pores of the stone and deliver a rougher finish but cut more aggressively, and a more slow pass will close up the pores delivering a finer finish. You should vary your technique to determine which method is best suited for the flywheel you are grinding.

Coolant, coolant, coolant

Be sure to check your coolant reservoir and skim the tramp oils on a regular basis, especially during the heat of summer. Your coolant will experience some evaporation.  A good way to combat loss of coolant is to mix the coolant in a separate 5-gallon container with a lid so that as you need additional coolant it will already be mixed and ready to pour in.  This will also prevent altering the coolant mix ratio that can happen when you add a little more water here and there and then maybe a splash of concentrate and before you know it your coolant is too watery and things rust or it's too concentrated and your grinder isn't cutting like it should. 

 


The coolant you use and how it's mixed can greatly affect the effectiveness of your grinder.  Irontite has spent considerable time researching and experimenting with all different kinds of grinding coolant concentrates at differing mix ratios to come up with our recommended coolant concentrate product and the best mix ratio for most operations.  As always, if you have questions, your Irontite Sales Associates are knowledgable about our products and can help you make an informed choice.  They are at 800-553-5953 during regular business hours.

Ideally, you would just have a schedule for changing your coolant, but every shop is different and some weeks the grinder is busy while others it's not, so here are 3 ways you can tell if your coolant needs to be changed:

  1. The coolant is so dirty you can't see through it
  2. You find yourself dressing the stone more often than normal
  3. You can feel more than one inch of sludge in the reservoir

A great tip/trick is to get a powerful magnet (they have gotten inexpensive in recent years if you shop for one), something about the size of a drink coaster or a little smaller and place it in your coolant reservoir on the bottom as far away from the pump as you can.  This will attract the metal shavings and prevent them from flowing back up to the work site.   Another idea is to create your own larger reservoir with a sludge trap of some kind to continuously filter the coolant.

Be sure to inform everyone who uses the machine to never use any other chemicals on parts that are on or over the machining surface.  Using something like rust preventitive on a part still attached to the grinding table can contaminate the coolant in short order.   So it's best to just have a rule that you always remove any items from the machine and never use anything other than coolant while at the grinder.

Mounting

Remove any dowel pins prior to mounting the work piece using a dowel pin puller. Be sure to keep track of the dowel pins and return them to your customer. When mounting, use the crankshaft-mounting flange as your reference. It's important to clean and deburr the flange and table surface before mounting. Select the appropriate flange adaptor and a centering cone. Tighten the centering cone bolt to secure the assembly to the table. Insure there is no movement and rotate the table to be sure the grinding wheel is not going to contact anything that it should not.  When doing a stepped flywheel, keep in mind that the torque of the grinding motor can make the stone move slightly and you want to insure that the stone will not bump up against the wall of a step.  This could cause internal cracking in a stone that will lead to the stone breaking aggressively.

There are also many optional mounting kits to help you mount all different kinds of flywheels and other types of materal.   Here are several to choose from. 

Grind Away

Hand feed the grinding wheel so that it almost touches the work piece. Put on your safety face shield and position the machine’s grinding wheel safety shield and the coolant shroud protective shield. Turn on the coolant, then the table, then the grinding motor. Manually feed the stone into contact with the work piece. You will know the stone is about to touch when the coolant on the back side of the stone begins to foam slightly.  Now feed approximately .001 per revolution of the work piece. A constant spark pattern is necessary for efficient grinding. This will also cause the stone to break down and keep cutting more freely as well as keeping the stone from loading up. There will be times that you will need to stop grinding and redress the stone.  If you are using a CBN wheel and it's making a lot of noise (singing) this is typically a lack of necessary downward pressure. CBN wheels require fairly aggressive cutting pressure.  Or it could be dirty coolant or the CBN wheel needing to be cleaned with a CBN Dressing Stick.  Continue grinding until you obtain both the finish and specification required for the flywheel.

If you have the auto-feed option on your grinding machine, you can set the depth of cut you want and use the auto feed rate knob to adjust how aggressive the cut will be.

Most manual machines will grind the average flywheel in about 10 to 15 minutes. Larger diesel type flywheels will take longer but you can charge more for those. The average labor charge for a flat flywheel is about $35 to $45. The labor charge for larger diesel flywheels averages $65 to $125

Maintenance … is key

It's critical the flywheel grinder is level for proper operation.  This is because the table actually floats on a bath of special lubricant called Table Lube.  If the table is not level, then it can leak table lube and/or set up an unwanted wear pattern on the under side of the table.  Eventually this can cause serious problems with the machine's operation and obtaining good flat grinds. Always keep the site jar located in the back right corner of the machine filled with table lube.  This keeps the level under the table up and also feeds the lubricating wick in the neck of the grinder column.  There is also a dip stick for checking your table lube, but, in most cases, if you keep your site glass jar filled you won't need to use the dip stick.

 

Cleaniness is....

Grinding is a dirty business.  It makes your grinder dirty.  However, you can extend the grinder’s life and profitability by wiping down the inside and outside after every job. A coat of wax for any painted metal surface will go that extra mile. The wax will make the wipe down go much easier too. The inside of the coolant shroud also needs to be cleaned and waxed to prevent crud build up. If you don't wipe after every job, the build up of all the stuff splashing around will attach and harden making it extremely difficult to ever get off and will also hinder a wipe-down by catching your cloth.

Use a deburring stone to knock down any dings or dents that occur on the grinding table when mounting flywheels. This little procedure will increase the accuracy of your flywheel set-up. Inspect all your tooling and adapter rings before using.  You are cleaning them anyway, why not pay attention to them and see if you have any marks that could introduce problems.  If so, get them replaced right away.

Use a wire brush on the threads of your hold-down bolts so they don’t carry debris into the threads of your center-mounting hole. It’s also a good idea to periodically replace the center bolt hole thread. Our EZ-Lok replacements make it quick and easy to keep your mounting threads like new.  These come with locktite red on them so you may need to use a little heat to get them free from the table.  But changing them on a regular basis will keep your table and its spindle in good shape for many, many years. Organize your tool board so you can quickly find the necessary tooling for mounting the next flywheel.

Check all Lubrication

Always double check your instruction and parts manual to be sure you use the recommended lubricants for your machine. 

Open the back of your machine and find the leadscrew. The leadscrew needs to be clean and well lubricated. It’s always best to use the leadscrew Lube specified in the owners manual. There should be a leadscrew nut that the leadscrew goes through. This nut also needs to be lubricated and has an adjustment procedure to keep your machine from having "head drop". The owners manual gives you step-by-step instructions for this.  It's a good practice to run your grinder column all the way to the top and all the way down at least once a week.  This is to help keep the leadscrew lube distributed over the entire leadscrew.  Over time, most operation takes place in the same small area of the leadscrew forcing the lube away.  Running the head up and down redistributes the lube.

The grinding head locking system only needs to be adjusted if after locking you can move the head.  Over time, the head may become difficult to move from side to side.  After you insure that this problem is not because the lock is engaged, there are 2 grease zerks on the opposite side of the column where you can apply regular automotive grease to lube the column top. 

Also, check to make sure the grinding head tilt is what the manufacturer designates and adjust accordingly. Inspect your dresser. Some machines have a star dresser and others have a diamond. Make sure the star is rotating and spins freely. If it doesn’t, it’s time to replace it. For machines that have a diamond, make sure it’s sharp and periodically rotated to insure even wear. Always replace if in doubt.

Always measure - never guess!

It’s a good idea to use a dial indicator when determining how much material is being removed. The leadscrews are very accurate, however, they are no replacement for actual measurement of how much of the stone wore away during the grinding process.  This is even more critical when you are working on a stepped type flywheel. You must insure you remove the exact amount of material from the pressure plate surface as you do for the clutch disc surface to insure the original geometry stays intact.

Taking care of your flywheel grinder will allow it to make money for you for many years. And if and when you do decide to upgrade or replace it for a new machine, it will have a higher resale value.

Remember, if you have more questions, contact  Irontite Products Inc at 800-553-5953

Valve Chuck Disassembly / Assembly Instructions

January 31st, 2012

4mm Valve Chuck Disassembly / Assembly Tool

PN: 012-1054-60

[This tool is required to perform the following operations]


Disassembly Instructions

STEP 1: Remove the chuck cover from the Chuck Bearing Assembly, being careful not to pull any wires from the cover.. Rotate the Chuck so that the Grind Mark on the front collar and the Yellow Mark on the Spring are Vertical as show in the photo below.

STEP 2: Remove the (3) three 8 x 32 x 5/16 slot head screws from the Chuck End Cap (Black) shown below.

STEP 3: Use the Disassembly Tool (picture at the top of this document) which is standard equipment with your machine, put the 8 x 32 screws (3) into the chuck shaft in a 1/4 of an inch. Put the 1/4 x 20 Hex Head Bolt finger tight against the End Plate.

STEP 4: Remove the Chuck Yoke.

STEP 5: Loosen the 1/4 x 20 Hex head bolt counter clockwise. As you release the 1/4 x 20 bolt, the spring pressure should begin to release.. NOTE: You may need to soak the chuck in Automatic Transmission Fluid to remove grit and make the collars slide easier.

STEP 6: Remove the Chuck Disassembly Tool.

STEP 7: Begin to remove the outer collar from the chuck shaft. Next, remove the Loading Cup with the Four (4) springs. The large spring and inner collar will be removed along with the Thrust Step Washer. As you take the Inner collar off the steel chuck balls(9/16) may fall out of the chuck shaft.

STEP 8: Remove the Chuck Handwheel and belt from the chuck shaft. Remove the chuck from the chuck bearing assembly. Clean all parts with a parts cleaning solvent.


Assembly Instructions

STEP 9: (1) Put the shaft back in the chuck bearing slide, use transmission fluid only and coat the chuck shaft. Make sure the keys are vertical.

(2) Put the thrust washer, spring, and (3) three rear balls back on the chuck shaft, making sure that the Yellow mark is lined up with the Keys. hold on to the bottom balls so they don't fall out of the shaft.

(3) Slide on the Inner collar, so all three rear balls are inside of the collar.

(4) Put the front set of balls in the shaft. Install the loading cup with four(4) springs facing out.

(5) Install the outer collar, making sure the grind mark is lined up with the keyways.

(6) Reinstall the Disassembly tool. Put the three screws (8 x 32) in one quarter (1/4) of an inch. Begin to tighten the 1/4 x 20 bolt, making sure that the collars are still lined up with the keys. Run 1/4 x 20 bolt in until it is tight.

(7) Reinstall the Chuck Yoke.

(8) Remove the Disassembly Tool and reinstall the chuck End Cap with the three 8 x 32 screws.

(9) Reinstall the chuck Handwheel and Belt, making sure the chuck and chuck handwheel are snug to the chuck bearing slide.

(10) Reinstall the chuck cover. Make sure there are no wires touching the chuck.

Micrometer Calibration for all Kwik-Way Model Boring Bars

February 1st, 2012

From time to time it may become necessary to re-calibrate your boring bar micrometer. Kwik-Way can not calibrate  your micrometer here at our facility due to the fact that it must be calibrated to the boring bar that it is used in.

Please follow the the instructions carefully and your micrometer will be re-calibrated and accurate again within minutes.

Model FW-II Pictured Click Here for More Info

1. Using a scrap block, center the boring bar to the cylinder to be bored, and tighten the base clamp screw.

2. Raise the boring bar up to allow the tool holder and bit to be installed into the boring head.

3  With the tool holder and bit pushed back into the boring head as far as it will go, tighten the gib set screw. Now lower the boring head until the the tool bit is just into the top of the bore.

4.  Loosen the bib screw and allow the tool to carefully come out and contact the cylinerbore. Tighten the gib screw.

5.  Raise the boring head to allow the boring bar mike to be inserted into the boring head. NOTE: Have the micrometer adjusted large enough so that the tool bit will not contact the face on insertion.

6.  Slowly rotate the micrometer spindle untl the face of the mike JUST touches the tool bit. Now remove the micrometer and advance the reading by .010 to .015, then tighten the micrometer lock screw.

7.  Insert the micromenter back into the boring head and loosen the gib set screw to allow the tool bit to contact the face.(Use caution so as no to have the tool bit scratch the face of the micrometer) Tighten the gib set screw.

8.  Bore the cylinder.... now measure the actual finished size. DO NOT  loosen or remove the boring bar. Take the measurement with the bar in place.

9.  Place the stem of the boring bar micrometer into a vise with soft jaws so as not to damage the stem. Loosen the allen set screw found in the rear os the mike thimble in the knurled area.

10. Carefully rotate the thimble so that the mike now reads your bore size. Tighten the set screw.

11. Now loosen the micrometer lock screw and rotate the thimble either clockwise or counter clockwise, whichever direction is closer to thimble "0". Now re-tighten the micrometr lock screw at "0". If necessary, loosen the thimble set screw and slip the thimble up or down until the 0 is on the appropriate black line on the body of the micrometer then tighten the thimble set screw.

12. Loosen the micrometer lock screw and rotate the thimble to the reading of  the bore size in your test cylinder. Now add .010 to the reading and rebore the cylinder. Measure the cylinder to verify size, fine tune your micrometer reading if necessary.

ROTOR RUNOUT

September 12th, 2013
Rotor Runout Title Image

When a brake rotor deviates from its axial plane viewed from the front edge of the rotor, this refers to a "wobble" of the rotor as it rotates. This off-center deviation is called warp, axial runout or lateral runout, all referring to the same problem that results in annoying brake pedal pulsation, often accompanied by steering wheel wobble/vibration during braking.

Rotor runout may or may not be caused by rotor thickness variation. If a rotor thickness check shows no evidence of a variable dimension, the rotor may be rotating off its true axis as a result of other damage. The wheel bearing may be badly worn and excessively loose, which would cause erratic rotor wobble as the vehicle rolls down the road. In the case of a hubless rotor (where a thin-hat rotor mounts onto a spindle-mounted hub flange), check the contact area between the hub and rotor hat. A large burr or contamination (caused by rust or grit buildup) may create an uneven mounting surface that will cause the rotor to rotate off its intended axis.

Another potential cause (one that is common where today's thin-hat rotors are used) is poor wheel installation practice. If, during wheel installation, the wheel fasteners were improperly tightened, it's very likely that the rotor hat may have warped due to uneven or excessive fastener torque. If you suspect this to be the case, a quick check involves loosening all wheel fasteners and retorquing in the correct pattern and at the correct torque values (do this one wheel at a time to keep track of any potential improvement). After the wheel has been properly retorqued, perform a road test to check for pedal pulsation. If the problem has lessened somewhat (or if you're lucky, maybe it's disappeared), you know you're on the right track. If pulsation has lessened but is still present, and you've ruled out bearing and flange-to-hat mating, chances are good that a light cleanup of the rotor on a lathe will provide the final fix. If not, you may be forced to simply replace the rotor.

MEASURING ROTOR THICKNESS

Before measuring for lateral runout, perform a rotor thickness check. This will determine whether or not that rotor is indeed serviceable. Also, you may find gross thickness variations that will readily explain the pedal pulsation problem.

Check the rotor thickness at eight equidistant points around the perimeter of the rotor (divide the rotor into seven pie slices). Never base your determination for rotor warpage by measuring only one spot on the rotor. Variation in rotor thickness will always cause pedal pulsation. That variation might be the result of excess heat buildup that has warped the rotor, or the rotor may be contaminated by isolated thick spots caused by rust or corrosion buildup (prevalent in vehicles that may have been stored for extended periods of time, where the contact area between pad and rotor may have created rust deposits). Use a micrometer to measure rotor thickness, preferably a specialty mic that's designed specifically for measuring rotors. The unit pictured in this article is a Central Tools #6459 digital disc brake gauge, which features one flat anvil and one pointed anvil. The pointed anvil feature allows measurement of the real minimum thickness of a scored rotor, as compared to a mic that has two flat anvils. The flat anvil surfaces will only contact the top, or high spot of any grooves or scoring lines.

Hub Runout ImageMEASURING RUNOUT

A dial indicator must be used to check lateral runout. The dial indicator must be securely mounted to a stationary (and adjustable) fixture. For on-the-car measuring, attach the fixture to a stationary location such as the spindle or control arm. Locate the dial indicator's plunge tip about an inch inboard of the rotor edge, and zero the indicator. Rotate the rotor manually through a 360-degree rotation, watching the dial indicator for changes in runout. The unit shown in this article is a Central Tools #6450 rotor and ball joint gauge. This features an easy-to-use clamp mount and flexible adjustment arm that solidly locks into a steady position.

Specifications may vary among makes and models, but you can probably use .002" to .005" as your maximum runout limit. In the case of a hubless rotor, if excessive runout is found, index mark the rotor to the hub by placing a chalk mark at a stud and at the adjacent area on the rotor hat. Then relocate the rotor clockwise to the next stud position, and perform your runout measurement again. In this way, you're attempting to "match" the rotor to the hub. Due to potential minor deviations on the machined surfaces of both the rotor hat underside and the hub flange, repositioning the rotor may create an "optimum location" that minimizes total assembled runout.

If you want to check runout of the rotor independently of the hub, chuck the rotor on your lathe and perform a dial indicator reading. It's also a good idea, in an effort to remove other variables from the equation, to make a runout reading of the hub flange itself, with rotor removed. If the flange itself is causing the runout problem, you'll be able to isolate the cause.

WHEEL TIGHTENING PRECAUTIONS

To prevent fastener-tightening-related rotor warpage, make sure the studs are in serviceable condition (check for thread integrity and repair/replace studs as needed), and check the condition of the nuts' threads as well. Never use fasteners that are suspect. Also make sure all threaded locations are clean and free of dirt, grit or other contaminants (poor quality or unclean threads can easily result in incorrect torque values). And NEVER use an impact gun with a standard impact socket to tighten wheel nuts. I don't care what someone else tells you with regard to this. The only proper method of wheel installation, especially when dealing with alloy wheels and thin-hat rotors, is to hand-tighten all wheel fasteners.

The only possible exception is the use of a "Torqstik." This is a torsion-bar type anvil socket that is designed to relieve tightening force as the predetermined torque is reached. If you want to follow this approach, you'll need a torque stick for each size nut and torque range (they are available, color-coded for easy identification, in 17mm @ 55 ft lbs; 17mm @ 80 ft lbs; 19mm @ 65 ft lbs; 19mm @ 80 ft lbs; 19mm @ 100 ft lbs; 13/16"@ 100 ft lbs; 21mm @ 60 ft lbs; 21mm @ 80 ft lbs; 22mm @ 120 ft lbs; 22mm @ 140 ft lbs; and 22mm @ 170 ft lbs. Heavier ratings are available in 1" drive for super-heavy-duty applications as well). These Torqsticks are available from many sources. If you're determined to use an impact gun to tighten wheel fasteners, this is the only sensible approach. Always follow the proper tightening sequence:

 
• If installing a four bolt wheel, start at the 12 o'clock position first, then the 6 o'clock, then the 9 o'clock and finally at the 3 o'clock.

• For five bolt wheels, start at 12 o'clock, then the 5 o'clock, then 10 o'clock, then 2 o'clock and finally 7 o'clock.

• For a six bolt wheel, start at 12 o'clock, then 6 o'clock, then 2 o'clock, then 7 o'clock, then 5 o'clock and finally 10 o'clock.

This criss-cross routing enables you to evenly distribute the clamping force across the face of the wheel and rotor hub.  Using a random tightening pattern and guesswork clamping forces is a sure way to create a rotor warpage, ruining an otherwise perfect job.

  • On vehicles with hubless rotors, brake vibration and pedal pulsation may be caused by any of the following...
  • Improperly torqued wheel fasteners (torque uneven, too high, or not tightened in proper sequence)
  • Contamination (rust, dirt, crud) between hub and rotor hat
  • Damaged hub (check runout of rotor on lathe)
  • Extreme heat buildup/isolated hot spots
  • Worn/damaged wheel bearing
  • Excess rust/corrosion buildup in isolated spots on rotor

 

 

RECURRING RUNOUT

Recurring lateral runout can be a nagging problem. The customer may have complained of a pulsating pedal, and shortly after your shop resurfaced the rotor, the vehicle returns with the same complaint. Causes can include a number of possibilities. First perform a rotational torque test on each front wheel. Do this by applying and releasing the brake pedal 6-12 times.

Then rotate the wheel using a beam-type torque wrench on a lug nut, noting the amount of rotational drag indicated on the torque wrench. Next, open the caliper's bleed valve to relieve fluid pressure and re-test for rotational drag.

IF ROTATIONAL DRAG WAS REDUCED AFTER OPENING THE BLEEDER, check for pedal bind. Try to pull up on the pedal. If it moved, re-test the wheel for rotational drag. If drag was reduced, adjust or repair the pedal linkage, brake light switch or cruise control switch as necessary. If this wasn't the problem, check the vacuum booster by pumping the pedal with ignition off. If rotational drag was reduced after eliminating vacuum from the booster, the atmospheric valve is likely sticking, so replace the booster. Note: pull with about 40-60 ft lbs force. However, if the vehicle has ABS, pull the pedal gently, as the rod may be pulled out of its socket.

If the problem is still undiscovered, loosen the master cylinder and pull it away from the booster by 1/4"-1 /2" (don't loosen fluid lines). If this reduced rotational drag, the master cylinder piston is not fully returning. Repair the pedal pivot shaft/linkage, or replace the offending master cylinder, booster or pushrod. Note : on some compact cars, the pedal shaft or the firewall may have been distorted, preventing full pedal return. Check this as a possibility

If the drag was not reduced when the master was pulled away from the booster, check for fluid contamination. This may be indicated by a swollen or slimy rubber diaphragm in the master cylinder. If that's the case, rebuild or replace the master cylinder, and all hydraulic components (calipers, hoses, wheel cylinders) and flush the entire system and replace the brake fluid.

If no contamination is present, trace the fluid lines. Begin by opening the fluid line at the master cylinder. If rotational drag is reduced, replace the master cylinder. If drag was unaffected, open the fluid line below

the combination valve. If drag is reduced, replace the combination valve. If not, open the connection where the steel line meets the flexible hose. If drag is reduced, replace that steel line. If drag isn't reduced, replace the hose.

IF ROTATIONAL DRAG WAS NOT REDUCED AFTER OPENING THE BLEEDER, strike the caliper twice with a rubber mallet to relieve any potential mechanical binding at the piston or at the caliper slides.

If rotational drag was reduced after striking the caliper, rebuild or replace the caliper as needed, and clean and lube the slides. In the case of a twin-piston caliper, make sure both sides have the same type piston (steel/steel, etc.) Also make sure the sliding pins are of the latest style, and use only silicone grease for slide/pin lubrication.

If drag still has not been reduced, check the rear brake function (road test). Accelerate to 20 mph, and carefully apply the parking brake (vehicle must be travelling straight, and you must hold the release button down during this to avoid loss of vehicle control! Perform this test in your parking lot or in a nearby large parking lot if possible). Service the rear brakes as needed to obtain full stopping ability. Adjust the height-sensing proportioning valve linkage if necessary.

Check the wear pattern on the brake pedal. If excess left side wear is indicated, the driver has likely been riding the brakes with his/her left foot, and dragging the pads as a result (increasing heat buildup). If excess right side wear is shown on the pedal, excess brake wear/heat buildup may be the result of towing or other heavy-duty use.

When a rotor warps, even though remachining may regain disc "flatness," the rotor may retain an internal stress "memory" will cause the rotor to eventually warp again. Aside from using a stress relieving process (such as cryogenics or vibrational stress relief, processes that are used in some racing applications to stabilize metals), the only answer is to replace the rotor, if recurring "warpage" continues.

 
 

Kwik-Way History

February 22nd, 2017
Kwik-Way History

Kwik-Way Industries, Inc., began as the Cedar Rapids Engineering Company in 1920, providing a product sorely needed by the fledg­ling automobile and truck indus­try—a reliable, standardized way to reface engine valves. Until the Kwik-Way valve refacing machine was marketed, that process was per­formed, with difficulty, by hand. Charles C. Hahn, founder of the company, was a former blacksmith's apprentice who appreciated auto­mobiles and wanted to solve some of their engine problems, such as valves warped by heat and wear. He queried machine tool makers around the country who not only lacked a lathe "chuck" to fit his needs but flatly told Hahn that such a tool couldn't be built. 

Hahn persevered, however, and with R.H. Meister, an experienced machinist, founded Cedar Rapids Engineering Company. The partners hired a creative mechanical engineer, A.I. Dunn, and between them, the trio designed the chuck needed to reface engine valves. The device worked and the Kwik-Way valve facing machine was born.

The firm's first modest office and shop was located at 902 Seven­ teenth Street Northeast in Cedar Rapids, and measured only 20 by 20 feet. However, the new product caught on fast throughout the United States and the business grew. The company's first salesman was I.R. Goodwin, an energetic young man who made his money the hard way—covering the dusty roads of Nebraska, North and South Dakota, and northwestern Iowa by automo­bile, peddling his wares primarily to garages.

During World War II, Cedar Rapids Engineering Company put its close-tolerance machining skills to work grinding radio crystals for the Allied defense effort. As the com­pany continued to expand, an eye was cast toward foreign markets. Although some sales had been made overseas almost by accident, it wasn't until 1962 that Kwik-Way machines were marketed abroad directly by Cedar Rapids Engineer­ing Company. That year, overseas sales totaled $68,000; today, that annual figure amounts to several million dollars.

After Charles Hahn's death in the 1940s, control of the enterprise was assumed, first by his partner, R.H. Meister, and then by Hahn's two sons, F. Critz and H. Cedric. In 1968, Cedar Rapids Engineering Company was merged into the newly formed Kwik-Way Industries, Inc., headed by Thomas A. Parks and a new professional management team. The company acquired a Canadian firm in 1969, now called Kwik - Way Manufacturing of Canada, Ltd. In late 1973, Material Products Company, a steel fabricat­ing firm, and Line-O-Tronics, Inc., maker of auto front-end alignment tools and wheel balancers, were ac­quired. Today Kwik-Way manufac­tures the automotive industry's most complete line of repair machinery.

A large industrial facility was built and occupied at 500 Fifty-seventh Street, Marion, in 1976. In 1 9 8 0 , the company employs approximately 300 people through its Marion facility, 140 at Rock Is­land, Illinois, and 50 at its facility at Toronto, Canada.